What Are Polyquats and Why They Matter for Curly Hair
Polyquats and the Curly Girl Method: What You Should Know
Polyquats (short for polyquaterniums) are very common conditioning ingredients in hair care products. They are used to improve slip, reduce frizz, help with detangling, and make hair feel smoother and more manageable.
The issue is that not all polyquats behave the same way. Within the Curly Girl Method, these differences can lead to very different results — from lightweight, defined curls to buildup that affects shine, shape, and how hair responds to other products.
What are polyquats?
Polyquats are positively charged polymers added to shampoos, conditioners, masks, and styling products.
Because hair — especially curly or damaged hair — carries a negative charge, these ingredients bind easily to the hair fiber.
This strong attraction is what makes polyquats effective, but it’s also what makes them controversial in CGM routines.
Why are polyquats used?
In general, polyquats are designed to:
- Improve detangling
- Add slip and softness
- Reduce frizz
- Make hair feel smoother and easier to manage
That’s why they’re commonly found in products marketed for dry, curly, or damaged hair.
The buildup problem in CGM
The Curly Girl Method prioritizes gentle cleansing.
Many routines avoid strong detergents and rely on mild cleansers or co-washing.
Some polyquats are not easily removed with gentle cleansing, and with repeated use, they can start to accumulate on the hair.
This is known as buildup.
What is buildup?
Buildup happens when certain ingredients:
- Bind strongly to the hair
- Accumulate over time
- Are not fully removed during washing
When buildup occurs, curls may:
- Feel heavy or coated
- Lose definition
- Look dull
- Stop responding to products that previously worked
Polyquats are one of the most common contributors to this issue in CGM routines.
Not all polyquats are the same
Some polyquats are lighter and more water-dispersible.
Others are designed to form stronger films or provide hold.
This is why two products containing polyquats can behave very differently over time.
Why routine matters
How a polyquat behaves depends on several factors:
- Its concentration in the formula
- How often it’s used
- Whether the product is rinse-off or leave-in
- The type of cleanser used in the routine
A polyquat may seem fine at first, yet still cause buildup after repeated use.
How Bönpello evaluates polyquats
Instead of labeling polyquats as simply “good” or “bad,” Bönpello focuses on buildup risk.
In general, polyquats are grouped as:
- Buildup-prone
- Use with caution
- Not enough information yet
This approach helps explain why a product may stop working over time — even if it initially seemed CGM-friendly.
In summary
Polyquats are not automatically bad, but they are not neutral ingredients either.
Understanding how they work makes it easier to avoid unnecessary buildup and make better decisions for curly hair routines.
